Easiest frontend conversion

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Mick33chevy
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Easiest frontend conversion

Post by Mick33chevy »

Asking all experienced hands. I'm new to the street rod scene, I have a 33 chevy import that will require an ifs. Being on a pension I can not afford shop frontend purchase. I know there's old threads on subject but looking for current feedback on easiest frontend transfer from donor car. My track width is currently 1405 (centre of tyre to tyre) with tube front end.
I've been trying to research and have looked at jag, L300 and HT frontends and still unsure which one to go for.
Car will be fully fendered.
Cheers
Mick
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chris spokes
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by chris spokes »

hi mick if you can find them HK/T/g narrower are HR good luck with your build and we all like photos too 8) and welcome
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zuffen
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by zuffen »

Without researching track width I agree with Chris old Holden easy to find and parts are cheap. Disc brake HR will be big dollars.

L300 are around $500.00 but some parts are hard to get, upper control arms are available overseas but they won't ship to Australia. putting a steering rack on one isn't hard but adds to the price.

Jag is a good front end but you have shock mounts to make and spares won't be cheap, but again around $500.00

Not much in late stuff that's bolt in anymore.
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FX Panelvan
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by FX Panelvan »

I used Jag front end in my Chev (48) and it was a great fit.
No major modifications needed to the chassis and perfect width too.
regards

Brian
Mick33chevy
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by Mick33chevy »

Thanks for replies, looks like it's holden or jag
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Newbee
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by Newbee »

Top Rods’s Peter Gough will be able to supply you the shock mounts for the Jag XJ 6 front end if you go that way.

Regards Newbee
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Sudsy
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by Sudsy »

Jag is probably easiest to setup. Has rack already fitted so steering geometry is factory. Also have 4 spot calipers and ventilated disc brakes (make sure you get series 2 or 3 as series one has solid discs and depending on which state you're in ventilated is a requierment). Toprodz has the shocker mounts but not hard to make your own.
Regards Bob
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jeffa
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by jeffa »

HT/K/G front end track is 1476 mm. So a bit wider than your 1405. Not much though. As long as you can get the wheels under the guards.
What engine is in it? Will there be room for the steering rack in front of or under the sump?
I put a HG front under a 1930 Essex (similar chassis to the 33 Chev I think). I had a 302 Clevo in that. They have a deep front sump, which ended up well behind the steering rack.
I have an HG front end in my 36 Chev ("top hat"chassis). The engine is a Toyota 1UZ, again the rack is in front of the sump.
I sometimes see the HT etc F/E for sale on Gumtree etc.
The only thing wrong with the Holden front ends is that (so I've heard) their design is a bit antiquated now. More designed for cross ply tyres etc. The others are more up to date.'
I don't have any experience with Jag or L300 front ends. So sorry I can't help there. Ther is quite a few builds on here that have used them. Maybe try a search?

Also, any chance of some pictures of the Chev?
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Mick33chevy
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by Mick33chevy »

Thanks for all replies. Have gone with a holden HR frontend, narrow than hk t g. Has HQ discs and VC commodore rack.
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jeffa
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by jeffa »

Thanks for letting us know.
If you can find out, or know already, what is the distance between the spring towers where they meet the main cross member (ie, how wide can the cahssis be?)

Thanks.
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FRANK BASILE
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Re: Easiest frontend conversion

Post by FRANK BASILE »

Good result to get that HR f/e. Scarce today like lots of popular alternatives once in abundance. I have had HK with conventional steering under both a 34 Ford and a 46 Mercury. Today I have a S111 Jag f/e under our 49 Ford pickup. Good brakes 4 spot calipers and power steering. Parts are readily available, not expensive. One thing I found was inner tyre wear becoming evident after the first 17,000kms and continuing with a bout of many long trips in the mix. Found that these are supposed to have best at positive camber, Mine running neg,so I removed every shim and have both sides just snuck into pos territory and set the toe in at 1/8 " To see how things go with the new tyres. Never had any issues though with drivability from the start. Out driving she tracks straight and true.
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