1932 Willys 6-90

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Gojeep
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by Gojeep »

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So here is what it looks like with just the engine bay harness removed. This is separate from the engine harness which connects to all the sensors and injectors etc on the engine itself. I have left that in place as there is no need to remove it.

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So one very full 55 litre-14.5 gallon tub with the body harness on the left and half filled engine bay harness on the right. Both harnesses will be used pretty much completely!

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One of the problems I have to overcome is that the engine bay is shorter on the Willys. I really don't want to move the grille forward to fit everything in. So anything I can do to prevent that will be done.

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There is a good 150mm-6" between the back of the engine and the firewall though which would be prefect if I can move it that far.

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I had measured a 60mm-2.3/8" difference left to right from the axle centreline back to the firewall. There was nothing obvious in the body structure to show that much difference from the accident impact. Well now that I have started pulling the front suspension out, I see a telltale sign that all is not right with the lower control arm bushing.

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I had the cut the bolt head off just to get it out. Impressed that the grade 10 bolt bent so much without breaking. Cast itself is undamaged and kept the lower control arm in place. Could easily repaired by just changing the bush if needed, but not using the front suspension anyway.

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With the exhaust and driveshaft out, the brake lines and ABS already disconnected, the rear suspension cradle could be dropped. Just 4 bolts holds it in place and is fully contained except for the upper coil and shock mounts.

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Rolling it out on the base of an old shopping trolley. Works really well and made a few of them up for the truck build.

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I did some research on how the fuel system works on the stock tank as I saw only an electrical connection on one side, but the fuel supply to the engine on the other, with no lines externally connecting the two! This is what is called a saddle tank due to the hump in the middle for the driveshaft and exhaust to run through leaving only a little space between them. This is just an example of why you have to plan ahead to use as much as possible from the late model donor if you use the electrical system. It's really is a case of use everything, or nothing at all! Below is a response from a Dodge/Chrysler engineer on Justanswer, when someone just asked what the ohms range was for the fuel level sender as was using this tank in an older vehicle and gauge cluster!
"The Fuel Level Sensor information is a bus message sent to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) from the Body Control Module (BCM). On the primary side of the saddle tank is the Electric Fuel Pump Module that feeds the engine and the Primary Fuel Level Sensor. On the secondary side of the saddle tank is a venturi jet pump and the Secondary Fuel Level Sensor. The jet pump is connected to the Electric Fuel Pump Module on the primary side by way of a siphon tube. For each sensor, a high fuel level or volume will result in a low voltage reading and a low fuel level or volume will result in a high voltage reading (I.E. approximately 0.5 - 0.7 volts at the full position and 4.3 - 4.5 volts at the empty position) when operating properly. The PCM uses the average from both sides to determine the total fuel volume. The secondary tank Fuel Level Sensor will be at an empty position before the primary tank Fuel Level Sensor will begin to decrease due to the siphon tube flow rate always exceeding the engines fuel consumption rate. Using this assumption, the PCM performs a diagnostic to check the rationality of both Fuel Level Sensors, as well as the operation of the jet pump and siphon tube as follows; When the total fuel volume is greater than 50% the primary tank should remain at the full position. As fuel is consumed, or sloshes over to the secondary tank while driving, the jet pump and siphon tube will replenish the primary tank to the full position and the secondary fuel level should decrease. When the total fuel volume is less than 50%, the secondary tank should be at empty and the primary fuel volume should start to decrease as fuel is consumed by the engine. If either scenario fails to happen the PCM will determine that one of the Fuel Level Sensors is stuck in range, or that the jet pump or siphon tube is faulty not allowing fuel to transfer from the secondary side to the primary side of the Fuel Tank. The rationality diagnostic for the primary side of the tank will not become enabled until the secondary side level is near empty. The rationality diagnostic for the secondary side of the tank is based on the average fuel volume in the tank. It is enabled when there is enough total fuel to fill the primary tank plus enough fuel to check the rationality of the Secondary Fuel Level Sensor when a calibrated amount of fuel is consumed. Since the amount of fuel consumed from trip to trip varies based on customer drive cycles, this monitor can accumulate fuel consumption over multiple drive cycles. The monitor will run until enough fuel has been consumed to make a decision. Once a decision is made, a new test will start."

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All that is left to remove is the engine and transmission. Only 4 bolts hold the engine cradle in place that also has the lower control arms and steering rack mounts etc too. Another 4 bolts retains the transmission cross member. I have the hoist crane attached to a bell housing bolt at the rear and a unused boss for the alternator at the front. There is also a trolley jack under the transmission mount to keep it level.

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I just lowered the jack a bit and then the hoist, back and forth until I could easily remove the engine cradle from the engine mounts and get it out of the way.

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Pressing another shopping trolley into service to hold the engine and transmission. Front of the sump is on the padded cross bar and the front of the transmission pan is on a timber support wedged in the rear of the trolley base. The jack is not supporting it anymore.

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Nothing left at all bolted to the shell now. Everything now will have to be removed via cutting or drilling spot welds to get it ready for use in the Willys.

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The engine and transmission wheeled out easily. They must really over engineer these shopping trolleys! Last time I had the transfer case hanging off the back as well.

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Free at last. Now fingers crossed that all the time spent on planning the cutting away of everything that I can't use is right, and the project all comes together back again in the end!
Marcus

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Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!


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zuffen
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by zuffen »

So is the workshop equipment sponsored by Coles or Woolies?

My Son's old RX8 had a similar fuel setup and the secondary fuel gauge sender failed and it would run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. It did that a few times until I figured it out. I wonder if the new owner has figured it out yet?

The VE Commodore I parted out for the Fargo build had a saddle tank but only one gauge unit. I wonder how it figured out the fuel situation?
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Gojeep
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by Gojeep »

They certainly made it more complex than it needed to be, The gen 1's just had two senders and two pumps and would keep it even. I guess they saved $20 production cost on the extra pump this way!
Marcus

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robtus
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by robtus »

A big task. I would fit the parts to the car, not fit the car to the parts... Easier I think.. Hotwireauto.com make a simple Hot Rod harness for the hemi that eliminates all the extra stuff and just gives you engine and trans basics..
I never make the same mistake twice, I do it 5 or 6 times just to be sure !!!

Making progress, https://www.muston.com/public_html/34%2 ... _Limo.html
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Gojeep
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by Gojeep »

Latest video on the 1932 Willys build.
Marcus

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Gojeep
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by Gojeep »

robtus wrote: Tue Nov 12, 2024 9:35 pm A big task. I would fit the parts to the car, not fit the car to the parts... Easier I think.. Hotwireauto.com make a simple Hot Rod harness for the hemi that eliminates all the extra stuff and just gives you engine and trans basics..
That is a very expensive way to do it and no way of having ABS, traction control and climate controlled A/C etc. Adding cruise control, sat nav, stereo etc. I spent way less than you and only had to pay for paint in the end! I cannot afford to build it any other way and get the extra features as well.
Marcus

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Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!


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zuffen
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by zuffen »

It's a big decision to make, whether you widen the car or chop the dash and lose a lot of features.

At least with flat screened cars you get an option of widening the car.

When I chopped the MightyBoy dash, we lost a few features but not enough to bother us.

I think you're headed the same way I would go as it will be much easier and cheaper to widen the body than try and fit everything you want in too small an area.

Plus widening the body is well within your skillset where reinventing the wiring wheel isn't ever pleasant.
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Gojeep
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by Gojeep »

Spot on. I rather deal with the sheet metal work than the plastic and so forth. :D
Be widening the overall body width only half that I did the Willys Truck, so don't see the problem. It's only the firewall that is more.
Marcus

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zuffen
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by zuffen »

Interesting shot of the 6-90 in the first 15 seconds.

It shows the taper on the body really well.

I think if it grew a little (or a lot) at the front it would just look like most other cars of the era, proportionately.
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Gojeep
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

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zuffen wrote: Thu Nov 14, 2024 6:12 pm Interesting shot of the 6-90 in the first 15 seconds.

It shows the taper on the body really well.

I think if it grew a little (or a lot) at the front it would just look like most other cars of the era, proportionately.
I'm looking at extending the doors further down to the running boards like the 33-34 Fords, and they are much wider across the firewall, so hope it will be fine if it looks like them.
Marcus

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Twin Spinner
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by Twin Spinner »

I liked your original Tudor plan, but however this turns out I'm sure it will be a winner 8) I just hope I'm still around to see it on the road :D
If it has tits or wheels, you can expect trouble.
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Gojeep
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

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Twin Spinner wrote: Fri Nov 15, 2024 9:19 am I liked your original Tudor plan, but however this turns out I'm sure it will be a winner 8) I just hope I'm still around to see it on the road :D
Live long and prosper! ;) Of coarse you will be around. :)
I tried hard to bring my wife around to the Tudor, and looked like she was on board until we saw some at shows I taken the truck too in the last month. O'well, it is hers after all. ;)
Marcus

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Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!


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zuffen
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by zuffen »

Think of the welding it will save.

She has your best interest at heart.

Like Twin Spinner, I want to be here to see it on the road plus enjoy the journey as you bring the old girl back to life.
Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by hudson nut »

I'm going to enjoy this project. You were eight or nine years into your pickup build when I found this forum. I feel kind of privileged to be seeing this one from it's humble beginnings. Build on, Marcus. I'm ready to learn!

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Re: 1932 Willys 6-90

Post by enjenjo »

What do you plan for the frame? What front suspension? I am assuming that you will need the frame done to start on the body. The 300 brakes can likely be fitted to most any front suspension with a bit of work.
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