hudson nut wrote: ↑Sat Nov 16, 2024 7:55 am
I'm going to enjoy this project. You were eight or nine years into your pickup build when I found this forum. I feel kind of privileged to be seeing this one from it's humble beginnings. Build on, Marcus. I'm ready to learn!
Dany
Well very glad to hear it mate.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
enjenjo wrote: ↑Sat Nov 16, 2024 10:18 am
What do you plan for the frame? What front suspension? I am assuming that you will need the frame done to start on the body. The 300 brakes can likely be fitted to most any front suspension with a bit of work.
Will be a double wishbone with coilovers that I will run the 300 rotors, calipers and ABS on. Looking at using a spindle that already has a bolt in hub, even if I have to change it out for another with the right offset and stud pattern.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
The 2005 to 2013 Corvette has the 5 by 115mm bolt pattern and is a SLA type suspension. At least here in the US the parts are very reasonably priced, The Corvette Wheel bearing diameter in the spindle is 0.5mm smaller than the Chrysler hub. It might be something to look into.
People who think they know it all, bother those of us that do.
enjenjo wrote: ↑Sun Nov 17, 2024 11:32 am
The 2005 to 2013 Corvette has the 5 by 115mm bolt pattern and is a SLA type suspension. At least here in the US the parts are very reasonably priced, The Corvette Wheel bearing diameter in the spindle is 0.5mm smaller than the Chrysler hub. It might be something to look into.
For sure. I have seen a few conversions using that now.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
robtus wrote: ↑Tue Nov 12, 2024 9:35 pm
A big task. I would fit the parts to the car, not fit the car to the parts... Easier I think.. Hotwireauto.com make a simple Hot Rod harness for the hemi that eliminates all the extra stuff and just gives you engine and trans basics..
That is a very expensive way to do it and no way of having ABS, traction control and climate controlled A/C etc. Adding cruise control, sat nav, stereo etc. I spent way less than you and only had to pay for paint in the end! I cannot afford to build it any other way and get the extra features as well.
I agree about the expense, and you have already proven you have the engineering and metal shaping skills. I had a different agenda, I did not want anything plastic, nor anything seen that might give a hint that my car was not made in 1934. I have mostly achieved that but it was a painful journey !!
I never make the same mistake twice, I do it 5 or 6 times just to be sure !!!
Yep, you have done a good job of sticking to that and is what most people do.
My theme is modern inside and underneath and will try to stick to that as well.
Just a different direction.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
Just going over measurements of the two bodies now that is it easier with one of them completely stripped. It is clear that I need to do the wide body to be able to cover the track width of the SRT8 and also fit in the interior and the engine for that matter. Here is the stock front width which I have never liked as the grille is too tall and narrow for my liking.
This is 5" wider with three slots or bars added each side which I thought I would have to do. But now it looks like one of the front guards had been hit side on reducing its width.
With some photo chopping this is adding two slots or grille bars each side to make it 3.5" wider. I do quite like these proportions as less 'Ford Edsel' looking and more like '32-'34 Ford grille proportions. I actually need 4", but this being so close it is easier to make up only 1/4" extra each side. Preference is to go with this width.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
Gojeep wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2024 8:36 pm
Yep, you have done a good job of sticking to that and is what most people do.
My theme is modern inside and underneath and will try to stick to that as well.
Just a different direction.
Agree that the list of stuff like ABS etc and climate control would be nice, but who needs Traction Control when you own a HEMI ??? That defeats the purpose !!
I never make the same mistake twice, I do it 5 or 6 times just to be sure !!!
I think the 3.5 look is good. You can always gain extra width in the panel sitting over the chassis inside the mudguards, add half an inch there, and maybe even add an inch to each mudguard in the centre, it would never show and it would spread the effect over several areas.. That is another 3 inches overall.
I never make the same mistake twice, I do it 5 or 6 times just to be sure !!!
zuffen wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2024 9:08 pm
If you go the 31/2"route, how will it look with a much wider cab? I figure you'll be adding about 8"per side to get your 20 overall you need?
Will need another 6.25" each side more at the firewall than the 3.5" wider version already shown. The windscreen wont be as much as that though as the taper starts mainly from there to the firewall loosing 3.5" each side in that distance. I also only need to keep the inside of the firewall at that width so will taper the cowl inwards already which will cut even more of the extra width needed. It will end up more with a '36 Ford wedge shape when viewed from the front.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
Gojeep wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2024 8:36 pm
Yep, you have done a good job of sticking to that and is what most people do.
My theme is modern inside and underneath and will try to stick to that as well.
Just a different direction.
Agree that the list of stuff like ABS etc and climate control would be nice, but who needs Traction Control when you own a HEMI ??? That defeats the purpose !!
I can push a button and turn the traction control off when I want a bit of fun, but Lisa will need it on as needs the aids. Mind you the Core version of the SRT8 this is from still had the tail out sideways in a straight line when you planted it on the test run around the block! It just kicks in when things go really too far.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
Do you think the front chassis rails are wide enough to let the engine sit down enough for the exhausts to clear?
Looking at the photo-chopping made me question how that will go.
Splaying the rails isn't all that hard but it would cause a few issues with the crossmember. Maybe that's an opportunity to use a later model car's front crossmember complete with suspension? Did Ford or Chrysler have anything with IFS and a bolt in crossmember?
Making additional bars for the grille will be a challenge.
Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
zuffen wrote: ↑Tue Nov 19, 2024 9:43 am
Do you think the front chassis rails are wide enough to let the engine sit down enough for the exhausts to clear?
Looking at the photo-chopping made me question how that will go.
Splaying the rails isn't all that hard but it would cause a few issues with the crossmember. Maybe that's an opportunity to use a later model car's front crossmember complete with suspension? Did Ford or Chrysler have anything with IFS and a bolt in crossmember?
Making additional bars for the grille will be a challenge.
The problem is Most everything has gone to struts on the front end. One that didn't is the Ford Crown Vic but that is likely too wide and the wrong bolt pattern. It is an aluminum crossmember and can be narrowed, but I don't know if that is legal in Australia.
People who think they know it all, bother those of us that do.