HK Holden to ford stud pattern

[FRANK BASILE]

VH - CL Valiant diffs are also Ford pattern, the track should be close to your Holden in the 58 inch ball park . Ratios are tall at around 2.9 and 3.23 from memory . XE-XF Falcons are still found ,may be wider though .

[chop_shop]

Got an xf here to wreck so will throw the tape over the diff

[monte]

The Hk stubs are the same as HQ and everything will fit .
The easiest way is to buy blank HQ rotors ,get them drilled to suit ford wheels and fit the later Aloy calipers on ,even up to WB will fit ok .You will find the ford wheels fit neatly over the rotors,like they were made for them ,however you will have to go to 15 or 16 in wheels or the wheel will hit the calipers

Should be no probs with 14" rims . I had Ford 12 slotters on a HK front end with re drilled HQ rotors and cast iron calipers . . HQ Holdens did use 14" rims .

I will try the 14in rims I have here but I recall they hit the callipers ,let you know tomorrow for sure

[chop_shop]

My rims are 15's so i should be fine

Measured the hk diff its 1550 drum ( outer) to drum outer so it must be from a HT
So i reckon the xr/xy length will be ok will bring wheels in closer

So anyone got a junk hk-ht diff i can cut the spring perches from ?

[monte]

Ford diffs had leaf springs up untill xe when they went to coils,so you could probably use the ford spring perch
the other option is to mount the ford wheels on the holden diff by changing the bolt centers somehow ,a lot less work maybe

[Oldcol]

Yep, the Fairlane 8"...he who dithers is lost! ....but I can offer up a good V8 Cusso diff, and it's cheaper too,how good is that!. If Warren decides to go HQ brakes (and it's the way to go)....use the cast iron PBR calipers that were original fitment on HQ's and are the smallest ones, they will give you the least clearance issues and of course you can run 14" wheels 'coz that's what they had. But.....if you mount them towards the front of the car like the HQ's,they will beat the edge of the upper control arms to death on full lock and possibly pinch the brake hoses depending on where you run them......best plan is to swap the axles side to side and put the calipers to the rear,this demands a bit of adjustment with a grinder to one of the caliper bosses ,but it's no big deal. In years gone by,we would just punch out the studs and redrill the existing rotors to Ford pattern. I still have the drilling jig for this,although apparently it is now Verboten to an engineer. Never did understand why, 2 sets of holes is no different to things like HK and Jag,etc that have a bolt on rotor. Still run that very setup in our Chevy and Willys (for the past 30 sumthin' years) and neither car has fallen apart yet.

[hotrodaccountant1929]

What about using P76 discs on the front ? - they fit Holden stubs and are Ford pattern. cannot believe this wasn't already suggested...

[woody28A]

What about using P76 discs on the front ? - they fit Holden stubs and are Ford pattern. cannot believe this wasn't already suggested...

P76, are getting real hard to get.

[FRANK BASILE]

Yep, the Fairlane 8"...he who dithers is lost! ....but I can offer up a good V8 Cusso diff, and it's cheaper too,how good is that!. If Warren decides to go HQ brakes (and it's the way to go)....use the cast iron PBR calipers that were original fitment on HQ's and are the smallest ones, they will give you the least clearance issues and of course you can run 14" wheels 'coz that's what they had. But.....if you mount them towards the front of the car like the HQ's,they will beat the edge of the upper control arms to death on full lock and possibly pinch the brake hoses depending on where you run them......best plan is to swap the axles side to side and put the calipers to the rear,this demands a bit of adjustment with a grinder to one of the caliper bosses ,but it's no big deal. In years gone by,we would just punch out the studs and redrill the existing rotors to Ford pattern. I still have the drilling jig for this,although apparently it is now Verboten to an engineer. Never did understand why, 2 sets of holes is no different to things like HK and Jag,etc that have a bolt on rotor. Still run that very setup in our Chevy and Willys (for the past 30 sumthin' years) and neither car has fallen apart yet.

Also on full lock turning into a Maccas driveway with already lowered suspension moving with the front mounted caliper hitting the upper control arm you can momentarily end up with a low brake pedal on the first brake application [floating caliper jamming] . Fixed later with an angle grinder "relief" .

[monte]

I have Girling front calipers and I tried the 14 in ford wheel and it hits the caliper .The 15 or 16 off a AU or a BA fit fine and they have the same offset .Col I have the calipers on the front and I can see what you Is talking about however I tried putting them on the rear and found the brake flex would have to come to the front and that created a major problem as to where it went through the chassis and it looked rather ugly ,The calipers looked good but the flex was just not correct ,I then put them back on the front and the flex was in a perfect spot to go through the chassis at the rear and have now got the lines all fixed in place .You have now got me concerned about the caliper hitting the top control arm and that will depend on the amount of lock I get with the rack I guess ,I can see the further the springs compress then the top control arm gets closer to the caliper so if you are on full lock and hit a big bump they could indeed make contact .I shall look into it further .Thanks ,I think

[chop_shop]

Thanks for the info guys , must have missed the for sale ad for the 8" and the cusso diff ! But interested in cusso diff will call !

Whichever diff will need the pads relocated so i figure use originals I see one now has to sell first born to procure one set of HQ calipers ! I thought the made a million if the hq's - there must be a lot in heaven these days ! To avoid the caliper clearance issue although not desired i wonder if i could retain the original front mount twin piston one but use rotors/ hubs from the xr/xt v8 ( solid discs) i think i have a dead xrv8 disc rotor somewhere that i will try

[chop_shop]

Monte

Is the ford wheel rim different in its rolling / pressing or stepped in anyway to an original HQ one ? Might be the problem

[chop_shop]

the rotars are not that far off....now to find the hub spec/bearings

XR 6 Cylinder


Type Solid
A = Diameter 272 mm
B = Original Height 50mm
C = Original Thickness 12.7 mm
D = Min Thickness ie Replacement 11.5 mm
E = Centre hole 79.5 mm
F = No of bolt holes 5mm

Ht 6 cylinder
Type Solid
A = Diameter 270mm
B = Original Height 55mm
C = Original Thickness 12.7 mm
D = Min Thickness ie Replacement 11.7 mm
E = Centre hole 72mm
F = No of bolt holes 5

[monte]

Monte

Is the ford wheel rim different in its rolling / pressing or stepped in anyway to an original HQ one ? Might be the problem

I have no idea what the offset of the holden wheels are .This 14 in ford wheel is off a xe type model

[Oldcol]

What about using P76 discs on the front ? - they fit Holden stubs and are Ford pattern. cannot believe this wasn't already suggested...

P76, are getting real hard to get.

...true,plus they are not a bolt on item,you need a kit to make it happen and as well, it moves the wheel inboard and also the raised hub in the center of the disc is bigger than anything else,so you need either P76 steel centers ,mags or machine down the center hub,which is do-able but probably frowned upon by out busy little rule makers.
There is really no need to over think this stuff, the HQ discs with HQ calipers are dead easy to fit up and tick all the boxes, ( but put them on the back ,not the front)...the 14" wheels are what HQ-WB have from factory and there is no way they don't fit. I have just removed 14" wheels from my Chevy where they have resided for the last 30 years,bolted to HQ discs and restudded to Ford pattern and with the cast iron HQ calipers. They fit...how could they not!
....on the question of hoses, either use Chrysler H997 and a banjo bolt fitting and run it somewhere convenient to the rear, or preferably the stock HQ hose and run it forward past the lower balljoint and curve it up and mount it to the crossmember on a special tab made out of 3mm flat,fizzed in place.



....Chrysler hoses on this one....



....HQ hoses on this one,a bit hard to see but the end of the hose is the shiny bit on top of the c/member near to the fender mount and you can see the hose as it curves around the c/member...piss easy and it offers more clearance than the rear mounted hose...