1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
There have been some discussions and some points cleared up and I have started building the parts I know will not be changed. I tried designing a chassis on paper but some of the measurement are up in the air so I am going to build it to ride height with no cross members so I can get the exact profile with cross members in the right place on the plan I submit. I know this is a bit backward but it will only be a small outlay money wise if they say no and I can also belt around the farm in it.
Whilst pulling bits out of the shed I place some bits together and checked the viability of the wheel base with a straight six engine. As the engine will be a bit more forward than a Jeep one it should be okay. With a wide track and short wheelbase it is going to look a bit like a land crab. Think Austin Kimberley with east-west 6 cylinder.
I need this part from the Falcon front end to get some measurements from so the spot welds were drilled out and the part was removed. and the chassis rail was measured 103mm x 56mm. That is pretty darn close to 100 x 50.
I carefully measured the original rail and transferred it to a piece I had laying around and bolted it in with some threaded rod and as much of the original mounts as possible. It looks good and the holes for the top arms are in the right spot so suspension geometry will be retained. It was at about this point I started to think about how I was going to pick these points up. I thought maybe some angle iron uprights, box section like the pick up place do, even made some enquiries regarding the cost of there kits and fitment to my project. Couldn't decide so I got some lengths of 100 x 50 x 3 and started on the front rails as these will not changed.
8 crush tubes later and I had some rails.
At about this point a mate come around to get some turning done and while I was doing that he was checking out my new project and just started asking question and throwing in his 2 cents worth and some of it was good.
I took some measurements and took a template to my local plasma cutter and got 4 of these made and welded them in place.
Then started plating the outside in 3mm. The idea is to do this back and front of the coil over mount then drill the front plate through the holes on the Ford pressing. Once this is done I will drop past the engineer I used for the roadster to see what he thinks. I can't afford design work from him.
Parts bought
Chassis rail steel $105
Plasma cut plates $40
Nuts and bolts $20
3mm sheet offcut $50
Cost $1485
Brock
Whilst pulling bits out of the shed I place some bits together and checked the viability of the wheel base with a straight six engine. As the engine will be a bit more forward than a Jeep one it should be okay. With a wide track and short wheelbase it is going to look a bit like a land crab. Think Austin Kimberley with east-west 6 cylinder.
I need this part from the Falcon front end to get some measurements from so the spot welds were drilled out and the part was removed. and the chassis rail was measured 103mm x 56mm. That is pretty darn close to 100 x 50.
I carefully measured the original rail and transferred it to a piece I had laying around and bolted it in with some threaded rod and as much of the original mounts as possible. It looks good and the holes for the top arms are in the right spot so suspension geometry will be retained. It was at about this point I started to think about how I was going to pick these points up. I thought maybe some angle iron uprights, box section like the pick up place do, even made some enquiries regarding the cost of there kits and fitment to my project. Couldn't decide so I got some lengths of 100 x 50 x 3 and started on the front rails as these will not changed.
8 crush tubes later and I had some rails.
At about this point a mate come around to get some turning done and while I was doing that he was checking out my new project and just started asking question and throwing in his 2 cents worth and some of it was good.
I took some measurements and took a template to my local plasma cutter and got 4 of these made and welded them in place.
Then started plating the outside in 3mm. The idea is to do this back and front of the coil over mount then drill the front plate through the holes on the Ford pressing. Once this is done I will drop past the engineer I used for the roadster to see what he thinks. I can't afford design work from him.
Parts bought
Chassis rail steel $105
Plasma cut plates $40
Nuts and bolts $20
3mm sheet offcut $50
Cost $1485
Brock
Don't Follow Me I'm Lost Too
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- Location: North Dandalup, Western Australia
Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Got some more done this morning and off to chat to engineer this arvo.
Wheel stays at same camber through travel.
This is what I am taking to get checked out. I will probably plate between the two coil over mount uprights also.
Brock
Cost $1485
Wheel stays at same camber through travel.
This is what I am taking to get checked out. I will probably plate between the two coil over mount uprights also.
Brock
Cost $1485
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- Gojeep
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Be interesting to see what he says but the bones of it all looks good so far.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
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To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Well the roadster is licensed and has done more than 1000k. So I can now do some more work on the Jeep.
Some small changes have occoured. The SOHC engine has now been replace with a DOHC Barra I got for free. I got rear suspension arms and brackets and springs from a VS commodore for free and new nolathane installed. I have taken my chassis rail to an engineer to have a look and he said it was all good. A chassis plan has been submitted and approved. The chassis rails have been welded together just awaiting fish plates and some crossmembers can go in.
Hopefully my chassis table I made will become free this break I can glue the chassis together and get it on wheels. Also the body is now going to be widened a bit so the track does not look real crazy. I am away at work at the moment so I can post some pics when I get home.
Brock
+ Nolathane $185
Cost $1670
Some small changes have occoured. The SOHC engine has now been replace with a DOHC Barra I got for free. I got rear suspension arms and brackets and springs from a VS commodore for free and new nolathane installed. I have taken my chassis rail to an engineer to have a look and he said it was all good. A chassis plan has been submitted and approved. The chassis rails have been welded together just awaiting fish plates and some crossmembers can go in.
Hopefully my chassis table I made will become free this break I can glue the chassis together and get it on wheels. Also the body is now going to be widened a bit so the track does not look real crazy. I am away at work at the moment so I can post some pics when I get home.
Brock
+ Nolathane $185
Cost $1670
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- Gojeep
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Good stuff there Brock. Looking forward to seeing the updates.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Well finally I have some room in my shed to do some of my own things, been busy with others stuff. for the last two breaks from work I have been able to concentrate on two of my own projects, a hydraulic water boring rig that fits through a doorway and will drill to 50m and my Jeep I will stick with the important one here.
Diff brackets cut from Commodore diff
Lower coilover mount for front
Coilover in upside down I am rusty.
The top bolts on the bellhousing from a sohc line up but the bottom are all different. I could have looked for an AU or later bellhousing but decided to weld in some new slugs. Problem sorted. Flywheel and clutch bolt straight in too.
Brock
+ Coilovers $465
Cost $2135
Diff brackets cut from Commodore diff
Lower coilover mount for front
Coilover in upside down I am rusty.
The top bolts on the bellhousing from a sohc line up but the bottom are all different. I could have looked for an AU or later bellhousing but decided to weld in some new slugs. Problem sorted. Flywheel and clutch bolt straight in too.
Brock
+ Coilovers $465
Cost $2135
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
When the engine was place in the nose looked way to long for a Jeep and the gap between the back of the engine and the cowl was about 200mm so decided to move it back I did consider a rear hump sump from another model but they are expensive so I chopped and welded the one I have.
Hump cut off.
Tack welded to check for fit.
Engine moved back 150mm in chassis, will just require some modified engine mounts and an oil filter relocation kit.
Centre crossmember was made
Chassis was clamped down to the table, fish plates installed and centre crossmember added.
More crossmembers added
Diff was jigged into position and brackets tacked to diff.
I came up with these bracket to move the steering rack back to adjust the ackerman angles for the 36inch shorter wheelbase and also to spin it back to change the angle for the steering rack input. The flat surface on top will also come in handy for moving the engine mounts back.
Well I am back to work today so not much from me for a week. I also have a Chevy S10 rear extension housing for the T5 which did not come with the shifter components if anyone has one they need to get rid of this moves the shifter position forward about 200mm.
Brock
+ Oil filter relocation kit $37
Painted RHS for crossmembers $138
Fish plates plasma cut $65
S10 Extension housing $420
Cost $2795
Hump cut off.
Tack welded to check for fit.
Engine moved back 150mm in chassis, will just require some modified engine mounts and an oil filter relocation kit.
Centre crossmember was made
Chassis was clamped down to the table, fish plates installed and centre crossmember added.
More crossmembers added
Diff was jigged into position and brackets tacked to diff.
I came up with these bracket to move the steering rack back to adjust the ackerman angles for the 36inch shorter wheelbase and also to spin it back to change the angle for the steering rack input. The flat surface on top will also come in handy for moving the engine mounts back.
Well I am back to work today so not much from me for a week. I also have a Chevy S10 rear extension housing for the T5 which did not come with the shifter components if anyone has one they need to get rid of this moves the shifter position forward about 200mm.
Brock
+ Oil filter relocation kit $37
Painted RHS for crossmembers $138
Fish plates plasma cut $65
S10 Extension housing $420
Cost $2795
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- Chrisso
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Geez Brock the Budget beater is progressing at a great rate, a really interesting build keep plugging away and keep posting. Very cool
- Gojeep
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Looking very solid for sure.
Nice that you have some equipment and skills as well that allows you to modify rather than just buy different parts.
Nice that you have some equipment and skills as well that allows you to modify rather than just buy different parts.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Sent you a PM
People who think they know it all, bother those of us that do.
- zuffen
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Looks great but I would re-think your fishplate design.
What you have will create stress risers.
The ends should be tapered to a curved end rather than be cut square.
What you have will create stress risers.
The ends should be tapered to a curved end rather than be cut square.
Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
zuffen wrote:Looks great but I would re-think your fishplate design.
What you have will create stress risers.
The ends should be tapered to a curved end rather than be cut square.
Yes good point I will sort that out. Thanks
Brock
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Nice work
John Daley, Member # 43, 1946 Chev Ute, 1926 Trackster boat-tail, sidecar racer, Engineers Coupe.
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- Posts: 448
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Re: 1943 Jeep "Budget Beater"
Don't Follow Me I'm Lost Too
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- Posts: 448
- Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2013 10:19 am
- Location: North Dandalup, Western Australia