Excellent news.
Seems pretty quiet around here, but you never know how many watchers you have.
Oh, and yes please, pictures!
1945 Austin 10
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jeffa
- Old Hand
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- Location: Canberra, Australia! Best country on the planet!
Re: 1945 Austin 10
Yeah. I've changed my signature. The old one was out of date...
What if climate change IS a hoax, and we make a better world for nothing?
What if climate change IS a hoax, and we make a better world for nothing?
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
Re: 1945 Austin 10
Yeah face book killed forums, but its shit for this kinda stuff and for reference material. What size do our images need to be ? or do we need to use an off site host for them ?jeffa wrote:Excellent news.
Seems pretty quiet around here, but you never know how many watchers you have.
Oh, and yes please, pictures!
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
Re: 1945 Austin 10
In the new shed, made up the trolly to move it round, used G80 level dolleys, work great, and can add to my trolley as required threw the build
Set the car up on the trolley, its currently welded to it, but will change to a bolt on set up. The Build of the car went back to a straight axle gasser style years ago, so I set a negative rake.
Stripped the Motor I had asside for it, got a few goddies like the old filler on the timing cover, cain tunnel ram, magnesium 6/71 and a manifold, cast finned tappet covers and etc. When I got the motor a 20 years ago I was told shes a good runner with a small cam but otherwise never been opened, well, shes out past 60 thou over size and everything is flogged out and dead stock, so its just now a used for test fitting.
Set the car up on the trolley, its currently welded to it, but will change to a bolt on set up. The Build of the car went back to a straight axle gasser style years ago, so I set a negative rake.
Stripped the Motor I had asside for it, got a few goddies like the old filler on the timing cover, cain tunnel ram, magnesium 6/71 and a manifold, cast finned tappet covers and etc. When I got the motor a 20 years ago I was told shes a good runner with a small cam but otherwise never been opened, well, shes out past 60 thou over size and everything is flogged out and dead stock, so its just now a used for test fitting.
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
Re: 1945 Austin 10
placed the motor at about where I had previously thought of to years ago as per my ASRF build sheet, but have an issue with the negative angle of the motor and the box fouling on the chassis, originally I think the box was planned to be a little further forward, but clearance on the radiator may be an issue later.
Pieced it together to check a few things out and ponder where to go next, get some measurements and ETC, I gotta get onto Ian and sort my front axle asap, I had hit a snag on it when I changed jobs, moved towns, and houses, now finally bought a place and built a new shed, and I've out grown it already!!!!
Pieced it together to check a few things out and ponder where to go next, get some measurements and ETC, I gotta get onto Ian and sort my front axle asap, I had hit a snag on it when I changed jobs, moved towns, and houses, now finally bought a place and built a new shed, and I've out grown it already!!!!
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
Re: 1945 Austin 10
So in the images on the previous post the car was set at a negative 5 degree rake, I loved the look of it, as it looked like it was hammer down just sitting there, but I was worried about handling, and drive line angles being excessive, atm the motor was sitting at 12, wanna get it down a bit. the Car in this image was reset to 2.5 degrees, and I'm happy with that, so that brings the engine back a tad, but ive gotta cut out the center of the K frame as soon as I can to sort that out. can get wedge plates for carb so the engine could sit nearly at any angle, but the transmission is a different story.
Stripped the car again, making the changes so need better access, made up for better engine mounts, they were meant to be temporary mounts, went a little over kill!, but there perfect to be left in place if they work out perfect and with the engine spaces back 1.5 inches to give clearance up front. now to cut out ,re brace the K frame as its not on a build jig and cut out the center and sort is all out.
Stripped the car again, making the changes so need better access, made up for better engine mounts, they were meant to be temporary mounts, went a little over kill!, but there perfect to be left in place if they work out perfect and with the engine spaces back 1.5 inches to give clearance up front. now to cut out ,re brace the K frame as its not on a build jig and cut out the center and sort is all out.
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Gojeep
- Old Hand
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- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:24 pm
- Location: Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne
- Contact:
Re: 1945 Austin 10
Good to see you back at it again. 
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
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jeffa
- Old Hand
- Posts: 4476
- Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2003 4:50 pm
- Location: Canberra, Australia! Best country on the planet!
Re: 1945 Austin 10
Yeah, might encourage a few others ( 
) to get a move on!
Good to see you got the pictures sorted too! Makes sense now.
And I hear ya about Facetoob stuffing Forums. We need forums for historical reference material.
) to get a move on!Good to see you got the pictures sorted too! Makes sense now.
And I hear ya about Facetoob stuffing Forums. We need forums for historical reference material.
Yeah. I've changed my signature. The old one was out of date...
What if climate change IS a hoax, and we make a better world for nothing?
What if climate change IS a hoax, and we make a better world for nothing?
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
Re: 1945 Austin 10
yeah mate we need them for reference, there was one other gasser built from an Autin ten, he used the old floor pan and etc, made it work, but now that thread is long gone, was a good reference tool, but wouldnt be legal here in AU, but gave a good indication of how to make it fit.jeffa wrote:Yeah, might encourage a few others (
Good to see you got the pictures sorted too! Makes sense now.
And I hear ya about Facetoob stuffing Forums. We need forums for historical reference material.
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
Re: 1945 Austin 10
Well started to refit the engine where I figured I'll need it, that gives me 12 inches from the front of the block to the original radiator, that is the same as my kingswood, I was trying to move it forward another 2 inchs as It will make life with the fire wall, steering and cabing space heaps nicer, being a streeter it makes it harder, as a drag car, not as much of an issue.,
The joys of hot rodding.
The joys of hot rodding.
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
Re: 1945 Austin 10
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
Re: 1945 Austin 10
Not much today but got some measures from a lad on Gassers au FB from a blown 350. made up a dummy pulley in the same position, the 350 is about 15mm longer than a 308 in the block. Also got a measurement for a davis craig 16 inch fan and banged it onto the radiator, there 100 mm deep and thats the width of the rad and they draw a decent CFM.
Question is, to push or pull, push would make life easier with engine positioning, but believe its less efficient. or maybe I look into two smaller fans with a shroud.
current radiator is 16"w, 19"h, 2" thick, and from the calcs would do a standard 308, but where is the fun in that, so I'm looking at if I ever stroked it, or went a crate engine so played with 400ci figures.
I worked on a rule of 2cubic inches of radiator per engine cubic inch, plus a few add on's for towing, heat, engine bay size and etc of which is about 3ci per ci, to hopefully carry the load of the blower and etc.
I can extend the radiator down, but will need to open up the front cross member to allow air flow.
Anyone got experience on sizing the radiator?. I may look into an oil cooler to help bring temps down.
Question is, to push or pull, push would make life easier with engine positioning, but believe its less efficient. or maybe I look into two smaller fans with a shroud.
current radiator is 16"w, 19"h, 2" thick, and from the calcs would do a standard 308, but where is the fun in that, so I'm looking at if I ever stroked it, or went a crate engine so played with 400ci figures.
I worked on a rule of 2cubic inches of radiator per engine cubic inch, plus a few add on's for towing, heat, engine bay size and etc of which is about 3ci per ci, to hopefully carry the load of the blower and etc.
I can extend the radiator down, but will need to open up the front cross member to allow air flow.
Anyone got experience on sizing the radiator?. I may look into an oil cooler to help bring temps down.
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Tappet Head
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:57 pm
Re: 1945 Austin 10
hey Lads
Chasing a few ideas and measurements.
Can some one measure the length of a BBC block for me.
And Steering boxes, I was going to use a HQ bx I have here, but from memory it mounts on the inside of the chassis rail, thinking I need to mount to the out side of my rail, to help lengthen the steering rod.
Front axle builders who can I use out there ? I was using Ian Chassis designs, recently made contact but unsure if hes still doing it as haven't heard boo.
Chasing a few ideas and measurements.
Can some one measure the length of a BBC block for me.
And Steering boxes, I was going to use a HQ bx I have here, but from memory it mounts on the inside of the chassis rail, thinking I need to mount to the out side of my rail, to help lengthen the steering rod.
Front axle builders who can I use out there ? I was using Ian Chassis designs, recently made contact but unsure if hes still doing it as haven't heard boo.
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Gojeep
- Old Hand
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- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:24 pm
- Location: Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne
- Contact:
Re: 1945 Austin 10
Always better to have it pull than push on the electric fans. Over 20% difference in performance.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
-
Harv
- Posts: 445
- Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:11 am
Re: 1945 Austin 10
Pull is better than push, but I haven't seen test data anywhere that shows anything like 20%. It is normally a few % at best. Some good background info here:Gojeep wrote:Always better to have it pull than push on the electric fans. Over 20% difference in performance.
https://daviescraig.com.au/thermatic-electric-fans
Cheers,
Harv