Hi Newbee, great to see you making progress, cross that job off the list.
Life always gets in the way, I've seriously experienced it over the last few months, but we have to keep plugging away.
Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
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Sly Fox
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
51 Dodge Custom & 63 EH Ute - Dare to be different
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Newbee
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
I was thinking of other things that needed to be done with the body off and realized I needed to mount the fuel tank, it is from an XH Ute with
electric fuel pump for fuel injection.
It is mounted in the tray in a recess on the XH, so I made a frame for it to sit on out of 30x30x3mm RHS. The front bolts to the shocker
cross member and the rear to the tray crossmember, I welded some temporary mounts at the rear so when the body comes off it will stay in place.
Now I can run fuel and vapor lines to the tank while the body is removed.
Now for the body removal, to happen this week all going well, I will lift it up, then roll out the chassis on the chassis table, then roll
in the Single Spinner chassis I kept to put the body on.
Regards Newbee
electric fuel pump for fuel injection.
It is mounted in the tray in a recess on the XH, so I made a frame for it to sit on out of 30x30x3mm RHS. The front bolts to the shocker
cross member and the rear to the tray crossmember, I welded some temporary mounts at the rear so when the body comes off it will stay in place.
Now I can run fuel and vapor lines to the tank while the body is removed.
Now for the body removal, to happen this week all going well, I will lift it up, then roll out the chassis on the chassis table, then roll
in the Single Spinner chassis I kept to put the body on.
Regards Newbee
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zuffen
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- Location: Sydney
Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
Smart move doing the tank now. Too easy to overlook simple stuff like this and have to redo stuff or it's just so much harder to do.
One suggestion use a couple of straps that go to the hook on the chain block to pick one end of the body up as it will stop the chance of the body trying to roll over. Be a shame to damage it.
One suggestion use a couple of straps that go to the hook on the chain block to pick one end of the body up as it will stop the chance of the body trying to roll over. Be a shame to damage it.
Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
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Gojeep
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
Good move on bring the A/C unit back with you.
I once brought back two ring and pinion sets as well as two lockers. The freight saved paid for my airfare.
I once brought back two ring and pinion sets as well as two lockers. The freight saved paid for my airfare.
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
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Newbee
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
Got busy on Friday night to get it all apart, first I had to do the bracing in the cab and tray, I wanted to be sure it wasn't going to get out of shape.
I hope this will be sufficient, the rust isn't too bad, most of the floor braces are intact, A & B pillars still attached, my worry was between the cab and
the tray as its only the quarter panels holding it together.
Regards Newbee
I hope this will be sufficient, the rust isn't too bad, most of the floor braces are intact, A & B pillars still attached, my worry was between the cab and
the tray as its only the quarter panels holding it together.
Regards Newbee
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Newbee
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
All worked pretty well, came off without a hitch, my chassis table was on wheel barrow tyres at the back and I had 2 jockey wheels at the front.
They worked OK on concrete but as soon as it went onto the soft lawn surface they were no good, I had an old caravan axle hanging around with Ford
stubs so I got a pair of hubs and U bolts and converted it.
They worked OK on concrete but as soon as it went onto the soft lawn surface they were no good, I had an old caravan axle hanging around with Ford
stubs so I got a pair of hubs and U bolts and converted it.
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Newbee
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
I kept the chassis from the 1950 Single Spinner, so I could use it as a trolley for the '52 body, so it could be moved out of the way into my
front shed. The chassis look very similar but it was about 4 inches wider at the rear so the body didn't fit right on, away it worked OK.
All my son wanted to do was try out his winch on his new 79 series so we winched it out of the shed and then back in, probably saved me from
pulling a calf muscle trying to push it around (which I've done before).
front shed. The chassis look very similar but it was about 4 inches wider at the rear so the body didn't fit right on, away it worked OK.
All my son wanted to do was try out his winch on his new 79 series so we winched it out of the shed and then back in, probably saved me from
pulling a calf muscle trying to push it around (which I've done before).
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Newbee
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
Putting it into the front shed was dead easy with the winch, the driveway has a steep gutter so made it easy.
Started cleaning up, plenty of oil soaked dirt from 70 years of bush travel and bitumen coating to scrape off.
Getting my modified Fox body sump welded up today, I had to cut it to clear the Jag steering rack. That will go back on to close up the engine
for now before I pull it out for further chassis work, its sitting almost spot on with 3 deg. down slope. I will line it all up and get the diff saddles
tacked at the correct angle.
Regards Newbee
Started cleaning up, plenty of oil soaked dirt from 70 years of bush travel and bitumen coating to scrape off.
Getting my modified Fox body sump welded up today, I had to cut it to clear the Jag steering rack. That will go back on to close up the engine
for now before I pull it out for further chassis work, its sitting almost spot on with 3 deg. down slope. I will line it all up and get the diff saddles
tacked at the correct angle.
Regards Newbee
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Gojeep
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
Good stuff! Big change of the build with the next phase now starting.
Chassis looks nice and solid under all the muck too!
Chassis looks nice and solid under all the muck too!
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
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Sly Fox
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1955
- Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:10 pm
- Location: Castle Hill, NSW
Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
Great progress Newbee, that all went well.
51 Dodge Custom & 63 EH Ute - Dare to be different
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Newbee
- Member
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- Location: YP of SA
Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
I think progress will speed up now, I’ve been procrastinating about splitting the body and chassis for a while.
Marcus the chassis is mostly pretty good but where I started the new section for the Jag FE was where the front body mounts
are, the chassis had cracked here on both sides due to the rubber pads being long gone. I have cut this all out with the new rails
and made new captive nuts for the mounts. The other area is the LH rear corner where the spring hanger has broken years ago
and a very rough repair has been made, I have a replacement section from a wrecked Mainline so this will be fairly easy to repair.
There is lots of dust inside the chassis but it should wash out easily.
On that point what are suggestions for painting the chassis with, I would also like to do the inside but it’s going to have surface
rust and no real way to clean it up.
Regards Newbee
Marcus the chassis is mostly pretty good but where I started the new section for the Jag FE was where the front body mounts
are, the chassis had cracked here on both sides due to the rubber pads being long gone. I have cut this all out with the new rails
and made new captive nuts for the mounts. The other area is the LH rear corner where the spring hanger has broken years ago
and a very rough repair has been made, I have a replacement section from a wrecked Mainline so this will be fairly easy to repair.
There is lots of dust inside the chassis but it should wash out easily.
On that point what are suggestions for painting the chassis with, I would also like to do the inside but it’s going to have surface
rust and no real way to clean it up.
Regards Newbee
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enjenjo
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
If you can figure out a way to get the loose rust out of the inside of the frame, chimney brushes and a vacuum might work. You can get cavity wax nozzles that you install on a plastic tube, and use that to propel cavity wax, POR15 or something similar into the frame. I used https://boeshield.com/ when reframing trucks.
Years ago when I was selling a product similar to POR15 I had a guy that bought 25 gallons of it, plugged all the holes in the frame rail, stood the frame on end and poured each rail full, one at a time, then drained it out to do the other rail. He then finished the outside before painting it. I thought it was overkill, but it was his money.
Years ago when I was selling a product similar to POR15 I had a guy that bought 25 gallons of it, plugged all the holes in the frame rail, stood the frame on end and poured each rail full, one at a time, then drained it out to do the other rail. He then finished the outside before painting it. I thought it was overkill, but it was his money.
People who think they know it all, bother those of us that do.
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toprodz
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
Hi Ian great progress, just a quick question about the fuel, will you able to remove it easily when the body is on? in case it a fuel pump dies, or for any other servicing needs??
Regards
Peter Gough
FOUNDING MEMBER #24 OZ-E-RODDERS ROD & KUSTOM CLUB
Peter Gough
FOUNDING MEMBER #24 OZ-E-RODDERS ROD & KUSTOM CLUB
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Gojeep
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Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
I used this locally made product. The guys there posted it quickly and always there to answer any questions.
No mixing needed unless spraying it and hardens much quicker than enamel straight out of a can.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product ... oater-kit/
No mixing needed unless spraying it and hardens much quicker than enamel straight out of a can.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product ... oater-kit/
Marcus
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
To try where there is little hope, is to risk failure.
Not to try at all, is to guarantee it!
____| \______\
|/¯\ |¯ |----O||||O
()_)-o-)¯¯()_)-o-)_)
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Newbee
- Member
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- Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 10:59 pm
- Location: YP of SA
Re: Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute
Thanks for the replies, I had forgotten about KBS, I used their fuel tank kit a couple of years ago before I put it away in storage.
Pete the frame is bolted on the front to the shock absorber cross member (part of the chassis) and the rear is bolted to a tray floor cross member, so I had to weld it at the back before I removed the body so it would stay in place. So the frame and tank is removable once it is all put back together. I will look at a removable board in the tray as well, hopefully it will line up with the
sender/pump panel.
Regards Newbee
Pete the frame is bolted on the front to the shock absorber cross member (part of the chassis) and the rear is bolted to a tray floor cross member, so I had to weld it at the back before I removed the body so it would stay in place. So the frame and tank is removable once it is all put back together. I will look at a removable board in the tray as well, hopefully it will line up with the
sender/pump panel.
Regards Newbee