XJ6 Inboard Brakes Upgrade to XJ40 Outboard Brakes Take 2

[grahamjb]

The next step is to make some spacers to fill the gap where the disks used to be and also chase the threads on the output shafts because they can easily get damaged when removing the half shafts.

Running a 7/16" UNF die over the drive shaft bolts


Home made aluminium disk replacement spacers - you can also remount the old disk and leave it there but it looks shit or cut down an old disk for the spacer.




Spacer in position and temporary half shaft fit


Now you can install the inner fulcrum support brackets that the swing arm pivots on. Make sure the bolt threads and threads in the diff housing are clean; apply loctite and torque to 65 ft/lbs. The Poms like wiring a lot of of bolts and these ones are prolly worth wiring. Be warned - these bolts can break if they work slightly loose and the results can be unpleasant. Always fit a tie down plate across the two brackets on final installation.


Getting ready for the next steps which will be fitting the half shafts, handbrake shoes and backing plate, calipers, handbrake cables, wheel bearings, disks and axle hubs


If you have not pulled a Jag rear apart before be prepared to get dirty and strong.

I weighed all of the major items and the final weight is in the order of 95kg - the diff centre by itself weighs 42kg, each half shaft is 7kg, brake disks are 5.2kg each, brake calipers are 2kg each, axle hubs are 4kg each and each swing arm weighs 8kg.

Hopefully in the next few days the rear will be assembled ready to install

[grahamjb]

Time to install the handbrake shoes, backing plate and wheel bearings.

Backing plate and handbrake shoes bolted to hub - note that the wheel bearing cups are also fitted to the hub.


Grease the outer wheel bearing and fit inside the hub


Fit the outer oil/grease seal


Locate axle hub inside wheel bearing and push on


Install bearing spacer and shim inside the hub from the inside


Do not fit the inner oil seal yet but slide on the ABS ring to the hub shaft




Insert drive shaft and fit locating collar


Do up hub nut really tight and check end float




If you have 0.002" to 0.003" end float remove the drive shaft, fit the inner oil seal and torque the hub nut to the specified value of 221 - 236 ft/lbs using a new nut.

Both of my drive shafts have no end play and I have to buy some shims during the week to set them up correctly and will post up the results.

[grahamjb]

If you are not familiar with a stripped down Jag IRS fitted to a custom vehicle the two photos below show the setup I installed in my AR-110. As you can see, the brakes are close to the diff centre and cause localised heating of the output shafts.





Even though I haven't finished the outboard brake conversion, the photos below show the difference between inboard and outboard brakes.

[grahamjb]

Went to buy the wheel bearing shims today and no one has any so I made a 0.005" and a 0.010" shim from flat shim stock





After fitting the shims and checking for end float it was time to remove the ABS wheel again to fit the oils seal and reassemble the hub again

Remove the ABS wheel (that won't be used as an ABS wheel in my build but is necessary as a component of the hub assy)


Fit the oil seal and refit the ABS wheel




Refit the half shaft and tighten the old hub nut FT - do not use the new hub nut until final installation in case you have to remove the half shaft for some reason

Check the inch pound torque reading in both directions once assembled - both half shafts should have similar readings
Drive Shaft 1



Drive Shaft 2



The only other job completed today was safety wiring the inner fulcrum bracket bolts and giving the bolts a coat of black paint


Tomorrow should see the fitting of the swing arms and brake calipers

[grahamjb]

This will be the final post from me on this topic as the next step will be to remove the current rear from my AR-110 and replace it with this one. Once fitted I will need to experiment with making brackets for the handbrake cables in situ and running new rear brakes lines.

Grease the new swing arm bearings before fitting the swing arm


Fitting the swing arm - do not fit nylock nuts at this stage because you still have to fit the tie brackets when you install the rear in the vehicle. I fit standard 1/2" UNF nuts at this stage to hold the swing arm shaft in position.


I like to cover the hole where the ABS sensor normally mounts


A small piece of aluminium screwed on using the existing 6mm hole makes a neat cover


Several photos from different angles showing the completed conversion










Although this thread included rebuilding the diff centre and installing new wheel bearings, the actual fitting of XJ40 hubs is simply a matter of making some bushes, a couple of spacers and sorting out a handbrake setup and new brake lines.

Hopefully this has shown how easy it is to replace Jag inboard brakes with outboard brakes.

[BLWNHR]

An outstanding tutorial, thank you very much for taking the time to document and post!

[Mudgy]

Mad shed Graham... I have shed envy once again..

Thanks for all the tips on the build mate, appreciate the time you took to show us all.

Cheers, Mudgy

[Ed]

Great write up!

[jeffa]

Thanks for the great write-up and pictures, Graham.
This thread should be moved to the Tech Knowledge Base section.
Anyone on here know how we can acheive that?

[grahamjb]

Thanks for the positive comments gents
I have a few more photos I can post up when I get back to Perth in a couple of weeks time.

[FRANK BASILE]

Thanks for the interesting thread. Great tutorial .

[Newbee]

Excellent work Graham, lots of very helpful info in this thread. Well done.

Regards Newbee